Crevasse Rescue
Edit on GitHubGlacier travel with a beacon: crevasse risk, the beacon's role in a fall, and the rescue response that follows.
Crevasse Rescue
Glaciers hide the most dangerous terrain feature in the mountains: the crevasse, a crack in the ice that can swallow a person completely. This page covers the beacon’s role in crevasse incidents.
The crevasse problem for radio
A person in a crevasse is in a narrow ice slot. The 433 MHz signal is blocked by ice walls in most directions, and the Radio Shadow can be total. This is the single worst environment for the beacon’s signal path.
The beacon’s honest role
In a crevasse fall the beacon can still help, with three expectations:
- It may not be heard from deep in the slot.
- The rope team hears you: if you are roped, the surface team is meters away and can use the beacon’s bursts to home in once they are at the crevasse edge, because the ice opening leaks signal.
- The recorded burst matters: if the beacon transmitted before the fall, the team has your last coordinates on the glacier surface.
The rescue response
If you are the surface team:
- Arrest the fall, then IMMEDIATELY transmit your position with your beacon or voice radio: the beacon’s last coordinates are now the search data.
- Secure the rope and build an anchor before looking over the edge.
- Communicate with the victim by voice (ice conducts sound) and by radio burst if they have a second beacon.
- Follow standard crevasse rescue: C (call), Z (zone), P (protection), R (rescue). Every glacier course teaches this sequence.
Prevention is the real answer
The beacon is the backup; the primary defenses are roping, crampons, crevasse-aware route choice and glacier training. A beacon does not make a crevasse field safe; it makes the rescue more likely to start in time.
Related pages
- Avalanche Rescue Operation for the avalanche side
- Radio Shadow for why the signal dies
- Winter Operations for the season context